Doughnut – Hello Victoria https://www.hellovictoriablog.com Lifestyle blog based in London, UK Fri, 22 Dec 2023 20:28:07 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 RHUBARB + CUSTARD DOUGHNUTS https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2018/06/04/rhubarb-custard-doughnuts/ https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2018/06/04/rhubarb-custard-doughnuts/#respond Mon, 04 Jun 2018 02:28:00 +0000 https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/?p=384 Read more]]> One of the best things about our allotment is that it has rhubarb. Richard and I both love rhubarb in all sorts of things – muffins, cakes, crumbles, pies… etc. (Although, we also love just plain ol’ stewed rhubarb with some yoghurt.) However, sometimes it feels like we almost have too much rhubarb (I know – it’s a thing!) and I’m always looking for new ways to use it.

One of the first things that came to my mind was rhubarb doughnuts! Someone at my work had actually tried to make rhubarb and custard doughnuts before, but the acidity in the rhubarb jam he made caused the cream to curdle. Ever since then, I’ve always thought that if I were to do it, I would turn the rhubarb into a curd instead, as it would prevent any curdling. After all, you can mix lemon curd with cream and it’s fine – and lemon is even more acidic!

So I went back to my tried and true recipe for crème patissière, which is the same recipe I use for making lemon curd! I simply swap the milk amount for lemon juice and add as much zest as the amount of lemons I juice. I figured I could do the same with rhubarb purée! However, once I had stewed the rhubarb, and blitzed it – it wouldn’t press through a sieve like raspberry or some other kind of puree. Too much fibre. In the end, I didn’t see it and simply reduced the amount of cornstarch in the recipe to account for how thick the puree is to start with. I figured that the rhubarb purée was about halfway between how thin milk is, and how thick I wanted the final curd – so I halved the amount of thickener (cornstarch) to just 10g.

The rhubarb taste is there, but subtler than I was expecting. I’m debating trying to make these without the custard next time. I would double the amount of rhubarb puree, and just flavour the whipping cream with vanilla and fold them together. I think the flavour would be amazing – but then I love rhubarb, and it might be too strong for some. But even without the strong rhubarb flavour – these still taste great!

For the doughnut itself, I used the same recipe from Justin Gellatly’s book Bread, Cake, Doughnut, Pudding, that I used in the paska doughnuts. Except, as these weren’t paska doughnuts, I used his traditional recipe with water instead of citrus juice. If you want a few tips on how to fry them, check out the paska recipe! My key tip is always to prove the doughnuts on parchment paper, rather than trying to lift them off a floured surface. You can even pre-cut the squares before shaping so that you don’t have to try and cut around the doughnuts once proven.

When I was trying to decide how to garnish these (all doughnuts need a garnish, IMHO), I was torn between poached rhubarb and rhubarb curls! In the end, I think the poached stuff works better, as it looks more like rhubarb at first glance. It is a better colour. However, the fact that you can make ribbons out of rhubarb is always fun. 🙂 I used this recipe to make them.

Which garnish do you think looks better?

Either way, if you happen to have a glut of rhubarb from your garden or just love doughnuts, why not try these? You could even try reducing the amount of creme patisserie in the recipe to see if the stronger flavour is better? Taste is always a personal preference. Or, you can just eat the rhubarb curd straight – ha! Pipe it into tart shells, or make a rhubarb meringue pie! Enjoy!

Print

Rhubarb + Custard Doughnuts

Ingredients

  • Doughnut Dough:
  • 500 g white bread flour strong white
  • 60 g caster sugar berry sugar plus extra for coating
  • 10 g salt
  • 5 g instant yeast 15g fresh 7.5 active dry*
  • 4 eggs lightly beaten
  • 150 ml water
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 125 g unsalted butter softened
  • 2 ltrs neutral vegetable oil for frying
  • Rhubarb Puree:
  • 225 g rhubarb chopped
  • 0.5 orange zest and juice
  • 50 g + 2 tsp sugar
  • 25 ml lemon juice
  • 10 g cornstarch
  • 1 egg yolk
  • Creme Patissiere:
  • 250 ml whole milk
  • 50 g sugar
  • 20 g cornstarch
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 0.25 vanilla bean seeds scraped out or 0.25 tsp vanilla paste/extract
  • 250 ml double cream whipping
  • 40 g caster sugar

Instructions

  • In a small bowl, mix together the flour and yeast. In a large bowl**, combine the water, citrus zest, sugar, eggs, flour mixed with yeast, and salt (layered in that order). Using a wooden spoon, stir until the dough starts to come together, then turn out onto a clean work surface.
  • Knead the dough at a medium pace, for about 8 minutes, being careful not to add any extra flour. This dough will be very sticky, so use a bench scraper to help you knead.
  • Allow the dough to rest for one minute.
  • Start kneading again, and add the butter in small amounts – kneading in each one before adding the next. Once you have added all the butter, knead at a fast pace for 5 minutes. The dough should be smooth and elastic. It’ll still be very very sticky.
  • Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with cling film, and allow to prove for 1-1.5 hours. Punch the dough down, recover, and place in the fridge overnight.
  • While the dough is resting in the fridge, make your rhubarb curd and pastry cream.
  • Place the chopped rhubarb, orange zest, juice, and 2 tsp sugar in a bowl. Allow the rhubarb to macerate while you make the crème patissière, drawing out the water.
  • For the pastry cream: In a medium bowl, mix together your egg yolk, cornstarch, and enough of the milk to thin it out a little.
  • Heat the remaining milk, sugar, and vanilla in a saucepan, over medium heat, until just simmering. Turn off the heat, cover, and allow to infuse for 20-30 minutes.
  • Bring the milk back up to a low boil, and slowly pour it into the egg yolk mixture, whisking the whole time to prevent the egg cooking.
  • Return the whole mixture to the pot, and cook over a medium heat, whisking constantly.
  • Once the mixture begins to thicken, remove from the heat for 10 seconds, and whisk vigorously. Return to the heat and allow to come to a full boil, for 10-15 seconds – keep whisking.
  • Strain mixture onto a large piece of cling film, and wrap to make a little pillow. Chill in the fridge until cold.
  • For the rhubarb curd: in a small pot over low heat, cook the rhubarb mixture until soft and broken down. Remove from heat, allow to cool, and puree in a food processor.
  • In a medium bowl, mix together your egg yolk, cornstarch, and enough of the lemon juice to thin it out a little.
  • Heat the remaining lemon juice, rhubarb purée, and sugar in a saucepan, over medium heat to a low boil, and slowly pour it into the egg yolk mixture, whisking the whole time to prevent the egg cooking.
  • Return the whole mixture to the pot, and cook over a medium heat, whisking constantly.
  • Once the mixture begins to thicken, remove from the heat for 10 seconds, and whisk vigorously. Return to the heat and allow to come to a full boil, for 10-15 seconds – keep whisking.
  • Strain mixture onto a large piece of cling film, and wrap to make a little pillow. Chill in the fridge until cold.
  • The next day, remove the dough from the fridge, and divide into 50g pieces. You should get 20. Shape each of them on a table (you may want to lightly flour your hand) into a tight bun shape. Do this by cupping your hand over the piece, and moving your hand circles.
  • Place the rounds on parchment lined trays, and lightly cover with cling film sprayed with cooking oil to prevent sticking. Allow to prove in a warm place for 1.5-3 hours, or until doubled in size.
  • When the dough is almost ready, begin heating the oil in a large pot over medium heat, until the temperature reads 180°C (356°F). You will need to be very careful working with the oil (it’s hot!), and try and check the temp. between each batch. Cut the parchment paper around each doughnut.
  • Fry the doughnuts in groups of 2 or three, for about 1.5-2 minutes on each side. Place them in the oil gently, by the parchment paper, and remove it once you have flipped the doughnuts.
  • Remove the doughnuts to a paper towel lined plate, to soak up any excess oil. While still warm, toss the doughnuts in a bowl of caster sugar.
  • Once all the doughnuts are fried, allow them to cool while you finish the filling.
  • Remove the pastry cream and curd from the fridge, and beat until smooth.
  • Whip the double cream, and 40g caster sugar until stiff, then divide in two and fold each half into the rhubarb and pastry cream. Gently swirl the two together. Fill a piping bag, fitted with a small round nozzle, with the mixture, or a ziplock bag with a small hole cut in the corner.
  • Using a paring knife, cut a small hold in the side of each of the doughnuts, to allow you to fill them.
  • Stick your piping bag in the hole, and fill the doughnut, then pipe a small amount to cover the hole. Decorate with poached rhubarb, or whatever garnish you like!

Notes

*If using active dry yeast, you will need to warm the water to about 46°C (115°F) and allow to dissolve. If using either active dry or fresh, add to the water instead of flour. **Feel free to make in a stand mixer if you have one, using your dough hook. Simply mix on medium speed for the time shown. It’s much easier to use a machine with such a sticky dough.
]]>
https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2018/06/04/rhubarb-custard-doughnuts/feed/ 0
PORTZELKY: MENNONITE NEW YEAR’S COOKIES https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2018/01/01/portzelky-mennonite-new-years-cookies/ https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2018/01/01/portzelky-mennonite-new-years-cookies/#respond Mon, 01 Jan 2018 22:14:00 +0000 https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/?p=314 Read more]]> Photo mennonitegirlscancook.ca

Well, it’s officially 2018! And why not start the new year with some good old-fashioned doughnuts? My grandma always called these New Year’s Küken (or “cookies”) but you may also know them as Portzelky. They are a German Mennonite favorite, always made for New Year’s Day.

When I was a kid, these weren’t my favorite things because they contained a dreaded ingredient – raisins. Not sure why, but I have always disliked raisins, especially in baked goods. You know when you pick up a cookie, thinking it’s a chocolate chip, only to eat a raisin?! Worst thing ever… I can remember eating raisins out of those little red boxes as a child and enjoying it. But now, despite my best efforts to get used to those shriveled little pockets of sadness… I just don’t like ’em.

Now that I am making my own New Year’s cookies, I can use whatever fruit I want! (Eat that, raisins!) I have always wanted to experiment with these little doughnuts and decided to try three different flavors this year.

The first uses raisins, but I soaked them with some alcohol for flavor (sloe gin to be exact). The second was candied citrus zest, and the third was apple and stem ginger, with a hint of cinnamon. All three also have some fresh orange zest and vanilla in the dough… because apparently, I cannot leave anything alone. When I told Richard I wanted to make these but add/change things, his response was “Of course”.

(You may wonder why I am bothering to make raisins, but I want Richard to be able to try them, and he likes them.)

Now, my grandma always waited for these to cool a bit, and then dusted with icing sugar, but I decided to mix that up too. For the candied citrus zest ones, I rolled them in a bit of caster (berry) sugar after letting them drain off the oil. You need to do it while they are still warm (like the paska doughnuts I made last year) so that it stick properly.

As for our opinions on which flavor is the best? Well, Richard and I both liked the candied zest and apple ones, but he also liked the raisin ones. He preferred the icing to caster sugar, but I can go both ways. Caster looks prettier than icing sugar, but it’s really a personal choice. As always, they taste best warm, so invite a few people over while you make them! Who would say no to warm, sugary doughnuts on New Year?

Print

Portzelky (New Year’s Kuken)

Prep Time 1 hour 15 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 35 minutes
Servings 3 dozen
Author acthiessen

Ingredients

  • 188 ml whole milk
  • 188 ml water
  • 1 tbsp active dry yeast
  • 43 g butter unsalted
  • 3 eggs
  • 58 g sugar
  • 1 orange zested
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 595 g plain flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 0.5 tsp baking powder
  • 180 g raisins chopped apple, mixed peel
  • vegetable oil for frying
  • icing/caster sugar for dusting

Instructions

  • Make the dough
  • In a small saucepan, heat the milk and water to 45°C (115°F) with half of the sugar. Remove from the heat, and stir in the yeast. Set aside for 5 minutes until bubbles start showing on the surface.
  • In a medium sized bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
  • In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining sugar, and eggs until foamy. Add in the melted butter, vanilla, and orange zest, followed by the yeast mixture.
  • Pour the dry ingredients over the wet, and mix together with a wooden spoon until no large lumps remain. Add in your raisins, or other inclusions.
  • Cover with some cling film, and allow to prove in a warm place for 45min-1hr or until double in size and bubbly.
  • Fry the portzelky
  • When the dough is almost ready, heat your oil in a large pot until 180-185°C (360°F). Be careful to make sure that the oil doesn’t get too hot or cool.
  • When the oil is the correct temperature, drop spoonfuls of the batter, 3-4 at a time, and fry for about 4 minutes (2 each side). Your portzelky may turn on their own, so keep an eye on them.
  • When they are a deep golden colour, remove with a slotted spoon and allow to drain on some paper towel lines plates.
  • Toss in caster sugar or shake in a bag of icing sugar to coat. Enjoy!

Notes

Adapted from Mennonite Girls Can Cook (http://www.mennonitegirlscancook.ca/2016/01/portzelky-with-dried-cranberries-happy.html)
If using raisins, rehydrate by adding enough hot water (and a tablespoon or two of any alcohol – optional) to cover half the raisins. Sitir, and let stand until room temp. then pour off any excess. For the ginger + apple ones, Use 126g apple, and 54g chopped stem ginger, with 1 tsp. cinnamon.
]]>
https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2018/01/01/portzelky-mennonite-new-years-cookies/feed/ 0
PASKA DOUGHNUTS: A MODERN TAKE ON UKRAINIAN EASTER BREAD https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2017/04/10/paska-doughnuts/ https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2017/04/10/paska-doughnuts/#respond Mon, 10 Apr 2017 23:20:00 +0000 https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/?p=182 Read more]]> The bakery that I work at in London, is quite well known for its doughnuts. When I first tried one without any filling, just the doughnut, I could only think of one thing. PASKA DOUGHNUTS! They use lemon zest in the dough, and the combination of yeast and citrus just brought back memories of paska. It’s not really strong enough to come through when there is a filling in it, but on its own, it’s like warm memories of my childhood.

For those of you who don’t know what paska is, it’s a yeasted Ukrainian Easter bread, flavored with lemon and orange. It’s usually served with sweetened cream cheese – or at least that’s what my grandma always made with it. And if you grew up in a Mennonite family, then you’re probably used to seeing paska with some simple icing on top, sprinkled with rainbow sprinkles… like this!

Paska Easter Bread

paska photo via Natasha’s Kitchen

But I wanted to make something different this year! So with those doughnuts as my inspiration, I decided to make paska-flavoured doughnuts! Using a recipe from Justin Gellatly’s cookbook Bread, Cake, Doughnut, Pudding – I adapted it to include the paska flavor. All it took was increasing the amount of citrus zest exponentially, and changing the water to citrus juice. (I also used active dry yeast instead of fresh, as it’s kind of hard to find.)

These doughnuts aren’t too hard to make, but as with most good things, they do take time. The dough needs to rest overnight before you can work with it, so plan ahead! As it’s an enriched dough, the amount of butter and egg makes it quite sticky to work with, which is why overnight is best.

The original recipe said to shape the dough on a really floured tray, but I learned a trick in baking school! If you place the doughnut rounds on trays covered in parchment paper, simply cut the paper around each one! When you fry them, you use the paper to lift the doughnut into the oil, which prevents you from accidentally deflating them. Then, when you flip them over, the oil allows the paper to simply slide off.

doughnut rounds before proving, and after

fry doughnuts paper side up, then flip to remove

For the doughnut filling, I wanted to include the cream cheese flavor of the spread my grandma made. So I made a simple pastry cream and folded in cream cheese and whipped cream. I included some vanilla bean, for flavor, but it’s just optional. It’s a pretty subtle cream cheese flavor, so feel free to increase the amount if you wish, or even add some mascarpone for additional zing!

To finish these off, I decided to pay homage to the old-school paska of my youth, and topped them with sprinkles!

Of course, if you wanted these to look more grown up, you could always top them with some finely sliced citrus zest!

So what do you think? Will you ditch the traditional Easter bread in favor of something a bit adventurous this year? If not, and you’re still wanting to make a traditional bread, I’ve got some recipes coming up later this week… but for now, doughnuts!

Print

Paska Doughnuts: A Modern Take on Ukrainian Easter Bread

Servings 20 Doughnuts

Ingredients

  • Doughnut Dough:
  • 500 g white bread flour strong white
  • 60 g caster sugar berry sugarplus extra for coating
  • 10 g salt
  • 7.5 g active dry yeast
  • 4 eggs lightly beaten
  • zest of 3 lemons plus 75ml juice
  • zest of 3 oranges plus 75ml juice
  • 125 g unsalted butter softened
  • 2 ltrs neutral vegetable oil for frying
  • Doughnut Filling:
  • 250 ml milk
  • 50 g sugar
  • 20 g cornstarch
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 0.25 vanilla bean or 0.25 tsp vanilla paste/extract
  • 150 g cream cheese
  • 250 ml double cream whipping
  • 45 g caster sugar

Instructions

  • In a small bowl in the microwave, warm the orange and lemon juice to 46°C (115°F), and whisk in the yeast. Allow the mixture to sit for 5-10 minutes, until all the yeast is dissolved.
  • In a large bowl*, combine the yeast mixture, citrus zest, sugar, eggs, flour, and salt (layered in that order). Using a wooden spoon, stir until the dough starts to come together, then turn out onto a clean work surface.
  • Knead the dough at a medium pace, for about 8 minutes, being careful not to add any extra flour. This dough will be very sticky, so use a bench scraper to help you knead.
  • Allow the dough to rest for one minute.
  • Start kneading again, and add the butter in small amounts – kneading in each one before adding the next. Once you have added all the butter, knead at a fast pace for 5 minutes. The dough should be smooth and elastic.
  • Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with cling film, and allow to prove for 1-1.5 hours. Punch the dough down, recover, and place in the fridge overnight.
  • While the dough is resting in the fridge, make your pastry cream.
  • In a medium bowl, mix together your egg yolk, cornstarch, and enough of the milk to thin it out a little.
  • Heat the remaining milk, sugar, and vanilla in a saucepan, over medium heat, until just simmering. Turn off the heat, cover, and allow to infuse for 20-30 minutes.
  • Bring the milk back up to a low boil, and slowly pour it into the egg yolk mixture, whisking the whole time to prevent the egg cooking.
  • Return the whole mixture to the pot, and cook over a medium heat, whisking constantly.
  • Once the mixture begins to thicken, remove from the heat for 10 seconds, and whisk vigorously. Return to the heat and allowing to come to a full boil, for 10-15 seconds- keep whisking.
  • Strain mixture onto a large piece of cling film, and wrap to make a little pillow. Chill in the fridge until cold.
  • The next day, remove the dough from the fridge, and divide into 50g pieces. You should get 20. Shape each of them on a table (you may want to lightly flour your hand) into a tight bun shape. Do this by cupping your hand over the piece, and moving your hand circles.
  • Place the rounds on parchment lined trays, and lightly cover with cling film sprayed with cooking oil to prevent sticking. Allow to prove in a warm place for 1.5-3 hours, or until doubled in size.**
  • When the dough is almost ready, begin heating the oil in a large pot over medium heat, until the temperature reads 180°C (356°F). You will need to be very careful working with the oil (it’s hot!), and try and check the temp. between each batch. Cut the parchment paper around each doughnut.
  • Fry the doughnuts in groups of 2 or three, for about 2 minutes on each side. Place them in the oil gently, by the parchment paper, and remove it once you have flipped the doughnuts.
  • Remove the doughnuts to a paper towel lined plate, to soak up any excess oil. While still warm, toss the doughnuts in a bowl of caster sugar.
  • Once all the doughnuts are fried, allow them to cool while you finish the filling.
  • Remove the pastry cream from the fridge, and warm for about 10-20 seconds in the microwave, then beat until smooth. Mix in the cream cheese. (taste and see if you want to add more)
  • Whip the double cream, and 40g caster sugar until stiff, then fold in the cream cheese pastry cream. Fill a piping bag, fitted with a small round nozzle, with the mixture, or a ziplock bag with a small hole cut in the corner.
  • Using a paring knife, cut a small hold in the side of each of the doughnuts, to allow you to fill them.
  • Stick your piping bag in the hole, and fill the doughnut, then pipe a small amount to cover the hole. Decorate with sprinkles, or citrus zest!

Notes

*Feel free to make in a stand mixer if you have one, using your dough hook. Simply mix on medium speed for the time shown. It’s much easier to use a machine with such sticky dough. **I always stay in my oven, which I briefly warm before turning off. If you add a dish of boiled water to the bottom of the oven, you won’t need cling film, as the steam keeps the dough from drying out.
Recipe adapted from Bread, Cake, Doughnut, Pudding (https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/193271/bread-cake-doughnut-pudding/)
]]>
https://www.hellovictoriablog.com/2017/04/10/paska-doughnuts/feed/ 0